I’ve never been a huge ice cream fan. Unlike my childhood friends, I rarely chased after the ice cream truck and unlike my college friends, I bailed on day 3 of our Roman gelato expedition (sorry!). Ice cream was nothing more than a molten chocolate cake compliment as far as I was concerned and didn’t hold a candle to Tiramisu.
If your feelings toward icecream sound similar to the above, Van Leeuwen just might change your mind. Launched in 2008 by New York entrepreneur and ice cream connoisseur Benjamin Van Leeuwen, these sunny lemon trucks deliver artisan ice cream to the masses. Van Leeuwen’s ice cream is made from organic, locally sourced ingredients including fresh cream, fresh milk, sugar and egg yolks. The manufacturing process abstains from preservatives and thickeners like condensed milk and corn syrup, emphasizing tradition rather than efficiency.
Another differentiating aspect of Van Leeuwen is its menu. Exceedingly simple, the 12 flavor offering represents seasonal ingredients and is neatly presented through hand painted herbs and spices. We chose a scoop each of Earl Grey Tea and Ginger – yum! The Earl Grey was delicate but complex and left a fantastic aftertaste of bergamot. The Ginger, in contrast, was unmistakably bold and masterfully combined the sharp tanginess of ginger tea with the sweetness of crystallized ginger.
I rarely get to the bottom of these giant ice cream cups, but the lightness and flavor of Van Leeuwen’s is hard to resist. If you haven’t already, go check it out. The trucks are usually parked in central NoHo, SoHo and the West Village and there’s usually one uptown near 60th and Madison; follow @VLAIC on Twitter for location updates. At $5.75 for a medium-sized biodegradable cup, Van Leeuwen’s doesn’t come cheap, but it is soo worth it 🙂
After watching Julia Roberts indulge her appetite for spaghetti bolognese, pizza napoletana and fluffy Italian desserts in Eat Pray Love, I decided to go back to Italy do some cooking of my own. I’ve had the good fortune to eat at some mind-blowing restaurants this summer, but I’m excited to try out some new recipes and tinker with some old favorites. So, to ease into it, here’s my simple spin on a hearty, healthy Salade Niçoise:
Salad Ingredients:
One cup salad leaves (mesclun mix works great here, but you can substitute with whatever you like / have on hand)
2 eggs, boiled and cut into wedges
A handful (100gms) of green beans
A few artichoke hearts in brine, drained
2 plum tomatoes (or other tomatoes, in season) cut into wedges
10 black olives (no big deal if you use green)
200gm canned cannellini beans, drained and rinsed (you can also use butter beans aka lima beans)
200gm canned salmon in brine or spring water, drained and separated into chunks (you can also use the more traditional tuna)
1 tbs capers
1 tbs chopped tarragon
Dressing:
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 tsp Dijon mustard
1/4 cup olive oil and balsamic vinegar (traditional recipe calls for French Dressing)
For perfectly boiled eggs, place them in a saucepan and cover them with cold water. There should be enough water to cover an inch above the eggs. Cook over medium heat until the water comes to a boil and then simmer for 3-4 minutes. Drain and plunge the eggs into cold water to stop the cooking process (you don’t want the whites to taste rubbery or the yolks to turn grey). Peel and cut into wedges.
Next, you need to blanch the green beans. Prepare them by washing thoroughly and then snipping the tip off with a paring knife (the stem end tends to be very tough). Fill a saucepan with water and bring to a boil. Do not add salt as this will draw water out of the beans. At the same time, ready an ice bath with ice cubes and cold water. Drop the beans into the boiling water and let them cook for 2 minutes. Then drain with a slotting spoon and let them chill in the ice bowl for about 5 minutes. This will halt the cooking process and prevent them from turning soggy.
Arrange the salad leaves on two plates and add the tomato, artichoke, salmon, egg, green bean and cannellini beans. Top with the capers and olives.
To make the dressing, put the ingredients together in a bowl or cup and whisk until blended. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Drizzle over the salad and sprinkle with tarragon. Done!
Rachel Ray’s salmon niçoise
*Note: you can also add back in the sardines as well as red potatoes. I deliberately excluded them from this recipe because sardines are the one thing I absolutely refuse to eat and because cooking potatoes will add 15 minutes to this recipe 😉
Urban jungle getting you down? Elbows sore from fighting through the Manhattan sea of humanity? Just wanna see some trees? Fear not, for Brooklyn is but a hop, skip and an L train ride away.
Last Friday, with friends visiting from London and Philly, we headed over to Williamsburg for a propuh night out. First stop: the Gutter. If you’re tired of paying an arm and a leg to listen to cheesy house music and eat artery clogging pizza at Chelsea Piers, the Gutter is a refreshing change of pace. Eight lanes, $3 shoes and just $45 to rent a lane for a an entire hour on weekends. We snacked on disco fries (yum) and drank beer while indulging our my poor bowling skills. A few pitchers later, we began walking over to Zenkichi.
The quiet, tree-lined streets we’d crossed earlier were now swaying to the rhythm of canvas-toting, sandal-wearing Brooklyn hipsters. We passed bars, clubs and even the occasional all-night bookstore (what?) before arriving at our destination – a giant warehouse, boarded up with what looked like planks of wood. Welcome to Zenkichi.
Opened in 2006 by a homesick Tokyo native, Zenkichi describes itself as “a modern Japanese brasserie providing an authentic dining experience of popular Tokyo establishments”. I’ve never been to Tokyo, so I’m not the best person to opine on its authenticity, but if the ambience is anything to go by, you’ll feel as far away from the urban jungle as possible with a 20 minute train ride.
Ambience:
The entryway is dark and cave-like, the hostess is Japanese. She politely enquires if any one in our 10 person party is pregnant or under 14 (children are not welcome) and then introduces us to our waitress, who smiles and begins guiding us carefully up a lantern-lit staircase. The walkways are strewn with pebbles, sectioned off by mirrors and punctuated, of course, by bamboo stalks. The dim lighting, abundant foliage and babbling of moving water will lull you into a dream-like state, making you think, for an instant that you’re in some sort of secret lair – a maze leading to a Bond movie rendezvous. Our table, like everyone else’s was cloaked in bamboo curtains, secluded but by no means isolated. A tiny button at the end of the table could summon our waitress should we need her. Exciting, if you’re into that sort of thing.
If you google “Zenkichi” you will find that a lot of foodbloggers, magazines and food critics have written about the place. It’s a favorite amongst Japanese food purists and amateurs alike. I will not, for that reason, spend a lot of words on the food, but I will strongly recommend getting the omakase, the chef’s tasting menu. Thrust upon us for being such a large group, the omakase costs $55 and comprises eight unique courses – absolutely fantastic value.
Food:
Over the course of 2 hours, we slurped oysters (fresh and delicious), munched on vegetable tempura, sampled the signature Zenkichi salad and tucked into the silky richness of the famous miso-glazed cod. Being a traditional Japanese brasserie, Zenkichi does not serve any sushi which can be a tad disappointing if you’re looking for your Saturday night sushi fix. That said, the variety of dishes was impressive and while portions were small, the meal overall was very filling. Some dishes, such as the duck (too tough) and the yellowtail sashimi on rice (I needs more vinegar!) were mediocre but, overall, the food was very good.
Course II (a): Asparagus AppetizersCourse II (b) Kumamoto OystersCourse II (c): Maguro TunaCourse II (d): Hiramasa Tartare
The slew of sakes, variously described as “earthy”, “rich” and “fruity”, perfectly complemented the dishes and the desserts (try the black sesame mousse) were interesting enough for us to sample despite being stuffed. We also received a tray of complementary truffles as a “second dessert” which we were all too full to partake in.
Black sesame mousse – a little too frozen to really be a \”mousse\”
Summary & Verdict:
Zenkichi was really interesting and different and cool. It’s a great place to take your out-of-town friends because it has that “wow” factor people come to New York for, as well as the authenticity that every foodie likes to brag about. The stellar ambience however, perhaps unfairly, generates sky high expectations for the food. While nothing is terrible, some of Zenkichi’s dishes are mediocre and the Omakase, I thought, could be more creative. Maybe I need to develop my Japanese purist palate since a lot of foodbloggers absolutely gush over this place but, for now, I’m reluctant to give it the same sort of rock solid recommendation as some of the ol’ favorites.
Earlier this week, the bf and I met up with his friends for our monthly dinner. As is typical of these reunions, there was a long list of requirements on the restaurant choice, not least of which involved the food. Despite my usual reluctance to use Open Table, I briefly resorted to it, before finding a 9pm table at Peasant.
Ambience:
Having walked by it several times, I knew that Peasant was set in a beautiful space. The entryway is small and the restaurant itself slightly recessed. The floor to ceiling windows offer a great view onto a cute, neighbourhoody street while the red brick walls, stone floors and dim lighting create a warm aura of rustic Italian charm. Peasant is much bigger than it looks from the outside and if you walk past the well-stocked bar, it opens up into a cavernous space with an open fire kitchen and many tables. The clinking of wine glasses and the euphony of happy dinner chatter help create a lively ambience without being too loud. Perfect.
Service:
Unfortunately, Peasant’s early wins were somewhat undermined by a long wait for our table. I hate it when New York restaurants book tables too close together or when (worse) they deliberately dilly dally so that you’ll buy drinks at the bar. We did happily buy drinks at the bar though and they turned out to be pretty delicious. (Try the La Contessa.)
Food:
Service continued to be slightly slow but we enjoyed our appetizers of razor clams, spring vegetables and a bocconcini salad. The entrees were a little more mixed. The gnocchi was good but a bit one dimensional and slightly doughy whereas the lamb con polenta was a disappointment. The lasagne con capretto was absolutely delicious and easily the best dish of the night but, when your best entree is the lasagne, something isn’t right.
The portions are large, but we’d saved some room for dessert and ordered the hazelnut gelato and a cheesecake. The gelato was good but the cheesecake not really edible. Hmmm.
Summary:
Not really sure what to recommend here. This is another place I really wanted to like but the food was a little underwhelming (especially given the expectations generated by the outstanding ambience and “open fire” cooking) and the service was iffy. I would go back and maybe try some different dishes, drink some wine and sit near the window. But if you’re looking for a guaranteed fantastic meal, this is not your place.
Damage: $270 for four with drinks.
Other: Interestingly, Peasant has been around for nearly 10 years. That’s like a lifetime in New York restaurant time! A lot of the rave reviews it’s received pertain to another era so maybe it’s moved south over time.
Double Crown and I have a love-hate relationship. At the best of times, we’re comrades in arms, partners in a Hendricks and cucumber crime, curious mashups of Brit love and commonwealth character… at the worst of times, we’re the most unpleasant kind of neighbours – civil, but wholly indifferent. Living, as we do, two floors apart, it’s hard for me not to have an opinion on Double Crown. Unfortunately though, it’s not an entirely consistent one.
Menu: First off, I love the menu. Executive Chef Brad Farmerie has done an outstanding job and his blog is well worth a visit. The broad theme has been described as “Colonial inspired South East Asian” and if you think that’s a mouthful, you should try the food. Imagine a bold collection of flavors, colors, textures and cultures, artfully tied together in a fusion of the familiar and the unknown – it’s truly an adventure for the palate. The menu draws influences from a number of different cuisines, including Indian, Cantonese, Japanese, Singaporean, Szechuan and yes, British. The result is a surprisingly fantastic ensemble of creative and beautifully executed dishes.
The Delicious Laksa at Double Crown
I’ve enjoyed many a dinner party, devoured multiple brunches, downed countless cocktails and even nommed several afternoon appetizers at Double Crown. My top three favorite dishes are the Singapore Laksa, the Roast Pork Belly and the Duck Steamed Buns. These easy-to-make, tough-to-master dishes are flawlessly prepared at Double Crown and are garnished, enhanced and flavored with an amazing set of herbs, spices and other touches that make them uniquely outstanding.
Ambience: The second big thing to note about Double Crown (and this could be a plus or a minus, depending on your mood) is that it is incredibly trendy. The AvroKO designed restaurant space oozes edgy character. An outdoor “garden” of white picket tables and planters decorate the entrance and work perfectly with the crazy busy, but also crazy beautiful, Bowery sidewalk to create a gastropub feel. Step inside and you’re greeted by a gleaming bar to your left and a maze of beautiful mahogany tables to your right.
On a typical evening, the dark interior is punctuated by splashes of candlelight, glowing lanterns and Robin Hood-esque chandeliers. The effect is a mix of intrigue, romance and edgy glamour. Walk further into the large recesses of Double Crown and you’ll come to an ante room with more tables and a “secret door” that leads to Madame Geneva, the bar next door.
So with all this awesomeness, why the debate? Well, the vibe is refreshing, the place is gorgeous. The food is good, yes, the menu creative. But really, Double Crown is kind of like REALLY overpriced. The dishes are pretty tiny and by the time you’ve ordered a few of them plus a drink, you’ve easily spent $70. I’m all for a fantastic dining experience, but just stepping into this place will burn a hole in your pocket.
Spicy Apple, Lotus Root and Lily Bulb Salad
Besides that, Double Crown can be really inconsistent on the actual food. Sometimes the fantastic ideas don’t follow through on the execution. Sometimes, they fail miserably. Like the spicy apple, lotus root, and lily bulb salad I had the other day. It just didn’t taste as cool as it looked. You have to be careful about what you order because there are a lot of artfully worded red herrings on this menu.
And one more thing, the service here can be really iffy. The waiters and waitresses are slow, forgetful and yknow what, they’re really just kind of snobby. That’s not the kind of service you should be getting at $70 per head. So.. the verdict is out. I want to love you Double Crown but there are still a few things holding me back.
Disclaimer: I actually eat here relatively often and my intention is not to poo-pooh it. If reading this has piqued your palate or even if you’re just slightly intrigued, I would encourage you to check it out. Brunch is a lot more reasonable, with a fantastic $20 pre-fixe ($32 with bloody marys), so consider grabbing a outdoor table and re-connecting with your inner hipster at Double Crown.
A Wandering Feast 